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Sunday, 28 September 2008

Whaddya Mean Poaching's Illegal?!

There is plenty of uninhabited areas all over Manitoba where one can hunt, and regrettably where there's hunting, there's poaching. Fortunately, wherever there are kitchens there's poaching as well, though thankfully this kind of poaching is legal even over here. ;o) Until this past weekend I'd never poached anything before, not even an egg. However, two events occurred that had me finally inspired to try this method of cooking, and with a particularly special ingredient to boot.

The first event was a trip I took back in June of this year to southern Ontario, which included a couple of days in the Niagara fruit belt and wine country, and that also meant two dinners in some fine dining establishments. Not surprisingly, several restaurants featured dessert menus that included icewine poached pears, as the Niagara region produces arguably the world's best icewines. The second event was an attempted wine-&-dine potluck party I organized back in August, but alas, only three of us made it. That meant that I still had plenty of my Inniskillin 2005 Vidal Icewine left over at the end of the party, and as delicious as it was to sip the ambrosia of wines, I figured that I couldn't down the rest of the bottle, even spread over a time period, without some degree of self-peril (long story short, I've a low tolerance of alcohol). So, remembering the icewine poached pears of Niagara, I figured I'd give it a shot in making some myself with this prized drink.

Upon sifting through the Internet for recipes, I realized I hit a bit of an obstacle: to date I hadn't been able to find any wine poached pear recipes specifically using icewine. Of course, my resolve didn't let this stop me, and after sifting through a few poached pear recipes, I rolled up my sleeves and made my attempt from scratch. First, I had about half a bottle left of the icewine, so that went into a pot, along with 2 cups of water, 1 cup of sugar and the contents of one bourbon vanilla bean. As existing wine poached pear recipes varied on the addition of other flavouring ingredients such as cinnamon sticks, fresh orange peel and even anise, I thought I'd keep my attempt as simple as possible.

Next, I'd bought 4 Bosc pears a few days earlier in anticipation of this weekend, so I peeled them, but did not core them this time, to be poached. As it was the first time I bought Bosc pears, I quickly realized I bought 2 ripe and under-ripe pears each, which in the end was a blessing in disguise as it allowed me to experiment two conditions of the pears under the same preparation conditions for comparison later on when I tasted them. Once the liquid in the pot was boiling I placed the pears in it and let it simmer covered over medium-high heat (which halfway through I then turned to medium-low heat after realizing how quickly the liquid was evaporating) for a total of about 20 minutes, rotating them every 5 minutes or so. Once I removed the pears and sealed them in a container to cool in the fridge overnight, I strained the liquid and boiled that down to about a cup's worth, which turned the liquid to a nice thick syrup. I also sealed that up and let it cool in the fridge overnight.















Last night I took one of the ripe pears and drizzled it with the vanilla scented poaching syrup for dessert, while tonight I ate one of the under-ripe ones. Though the sweetness wasn't overpowering, I realized it was still perhaps on the strong side since icewine is naturally sweeter than most other wines used for poaching, so cutting back slightly on the sugar is something I must keep in mind the next time I make this. The aroma of the pears mingled nicely with the flavours of the icewine, all of which ended with a gentle vanilla finish. Two things quickly became apparent to me about using ripe versus under-ripe pears. Ripe pears ended up being considerably softer, almost melting in my mouth, and they also absorbed all the flavours from the poaching liquid much better than the under-ripe ones. Also, adding other flavorings, especially cinnamon and orange peel, should add more depth to the sweetness of the syrup, and one of those flavouring ingredients could perhaps even counter the sweetness to a certain degree.

Considering this is my first attempt, I'd have to consider this attempt as being relatively successful. Certainly this will be work in progress and will require some improvement by the time I poach pears again, but at least now I have a good idea on what to expect as well as how the end product should be. This is definitely worth trying again, though, since icewine is particularly pricey, I'll likely have to wait making specifically icewine poached pears until there's a special event that warrants such a decadent dessert.

Sunday, 21 September 2008

A Taste of Korea in Winnipeg

I'd discovered a Korean restaurant while scrounging through a Winnipeg restaurant guide some time ago, and more recently this year I'd wanted to try the restaurant called Be One. However, for the life of me I couldn't seem to find the restaurant, nor the Korean grocery store near it, down the commercial stretches of Portage Ave. both east and west of Century St. (i.e. Route 90). Finally, last month during the afternoon of another daytrip I'd discovered both businesses located in a row of shops just a few blocks west of Century, which allowed me the opportunity to try dinner last night.

The restaurant's outdoor facade was quite unassuming that one wouldn't have expected a nice looking restaurant inside, but indeed there was one. However, I quickly noticed that this restaurant space might not have been originally designed for a Korean restaurant in mind; the picture in the entrance hall of what could be the Rhine, the wall-mounted gas-lamp-like candleabras, and the varnished wood panelling had me wondering if I'd made a mistake trying this place. Fortunately, I was quite reassured as soon as I saw and heard the staff at this place; this Korean restaurant was being run by Koreans, which meant that the chances of them offering authentic (i.e. not Canadianized) cuisine, though not guaranteed, was higher. My taste buds were not disappointed at all from what I was served.















Though I managed to eat all that you see in the picture, in hindsight I could've dropped the Japchae if only not to be slightly overstuffed with food. I was originally waffling between either the Bibimbap or the Bulgogi, but at the advice of the staff I went for the Bulgogi, which came with a miso soup (not shown), a bowl of rice and a four-dish all-veggie Banchan (side dishes). As you can see, it looked like I was dining like a mid-level Imperial government official! (Of course, I do work in a government, but I digress...)

I was first served some miso soup, which I know is a Japanese dish. That said, Be One's version is not like the miso soups you'd normally find in Japanese restaurants; this one was darker in colour and richer in flavour. The japchae I had was served warm, stir-fried to a nice finish. The cellophane noodles were cooked to the right texture, the pieces of beef weren't overdone, and the red and green peppers still retained their crunch and rare sweetness while the onions were cooked just enough to be rid of the raw zing. The flavouring of it was just right, accentuated on the savoury side by both the beef and the slices of shiitake mushrooms.

The bulgogi was also nicely prepared, though this restaurant's version was likely pan-cooked rather than grilled. Just enough soy sauce was used to marinate the meat to ensure that it wasn't too salty.

The banchan were simple yet refreshing interludes between bites of the bulgogi. In the picture, from left to right along the top were:

  • Kimchi, arguably one of the best known Korean dishes around the world. This version was, at least to me, not too spicy, and in spite of the cabbage having been pickled in brine during the preparation of kimchi, it surprisingly didn't have a distinct salty taste that one might experience with some other pickled dishes from around the world;
  • Sliced potatoes in a sweet soy marinade;
  • Bean sprouts with sesame oil (kongnamul), by far my favourite of the banchan dishes tasted so far in my life (I have a particular weakness for the aroma of sesame oil); and
  • Garlic-flavoured slices of zucchini. Obviously zucchini's not an ingredient one normally finds in Korea, but here in Canada, where multiculturalism thrives, fusion cuisine abounds and situation substitution is sometimes necessary due to what can be found locally, even an Italian vegetable can find itself a home in Korean cuisine.
Overall I enjoyed the dining this place had to offer. The food was nicely done, and, compared to some other restaurants I've tried and reviewed to date, the price range is definitely more accessible; considering the quality of the food, I found it to be a deal as well. Unfortunately, fate had me trying this place when they were short on waiting staff, which meant the remaining staff at the restaurant were scrambling about. Give them credit, though, for keeping their cool and the smiles on their faces. Also, I noticed that some notable Korean dishes appeared to be missing on the menu, especially galbi (grilled beef short ribs)... how can a Korean restaurant not serve beef short ribs? (OK, I'll admit I've an affinity for beef short ribs, as my family can attest.)

Hopefully, the next time I'm there they'll have everybody accounted for... and perhaps they will have renovated the interior to better reflect the style of cuisine they offer.


Name: Be One
Address: 1811 Portage Ave., Winnipeg, MB
Cuisine: Korean
Price Range: Dinner $15-$40
Accessible: Yes

Saturday, 9 August 2008

A Different Steak Dinner

I say, it's been some time since I updated this blog! Part of the reason has been that I hadn't tried any restaurants yet that are worth writing about, and part of the reason has also been that I hadn't tried cooking anything new lately. However, today during my grocery run an impulse to try cooking something I hadn't cooked before got the best of me, and I bought myself a bison T-bone steak.

Though wild American bison numbers today are nowhere near the level before European settlement of the Prairies, the prevalence of bison farming has made the consumption of bison possible. Bison is considerably leaner than beef, and therefore one can't overcook it in order to maintain tenderness. My steak perchance was cut about 3/4" thick, which the supermarket in which I bought the steak suggested that I should cook no more than 4-5 minutes per side. My intuition from grilling beef steaks advised me to put the stove heat to a medium-high setting, and it certainly helped bring the bison steak to a nice medium level.

I also was compelled to buy a bunch of beets. Coming in no more than threes, the batch of beets caught my attention this time for not only the large size of the beets themselves but also the length of the greens. Armed with these two major ingredients, I made myself a steak dinner this evening.

After cutting the greens loose I wrapped each beet in aluminum foil and put them in a 400-degree oven for an hour. In the meantime I cut the greens to more bite-sized lengths, later sauteeing the stalks first in olive oil and sliced garlic for a couple of minutes under medium-high heat before adding the more tender leaves to cook a few minutes more until wilted. For flavour I just added some freshly ground pepper and chicken powder; stock would've meant the greens would've been drowning in too much liquid.

With the bison steak I patted it dry and sprinkled both sides with coarse salt and ground pepper before cooking it over medium-high heat in my cast iron pan. Once the steak was cooked I set it aside, lowered the heat to medium, added a tablespoon of butter to the pan (and a dash of olive oil to minimize the chance of the butter being burnt) and sauteed ~100g of sliced shiitake mushrooms with one sliced shallot, sprinkled with a dash of salt and pepper. Once the mushrooms were virtually cooked I added a cup of Jackson-Triggs 2005 Okanagan Estate Merlot with a tablespoon of flour already mixed in it; I've personally had better experience thickening the sauce this manner than by adding flour into the pan directly and trying to stir like mad to make the flour blend with the liquid.

As the sauce thickened and the alcohol was burning off I added a few splashes of chicken stock to make sure that it didn't get too thick, but in the end had to add a bit of chicken powder to enhance the flavour. By this time the beets were ready, and after peeling one of them by hand (the skin falls off more easily once cooked) I cut it up into cubes and tossed it into some mixed baby greens and sprinkled it with some honey balsamic dressing for my starting salad.

















The bison steak itself was decently tender and had a flavour that, though similar to beef, is still quite distinct. It definitely felt less greasy in the mouth than a beef steak, and the bison meat grain felt finer than that of beef. Of course, bison will still be considred as a treat in my pad as it costs considerably more than beef, but it is definitely a nice and potentially healthier alternative to beef that we so easily find in our supermarkets.

Sunday, 22 June 2008

Dining in Canada's Icewine Country - Part 2

Having grown up a bit more since we last went to the Niagara area as a family, our tastes changed over time, especially since when my sis and I were kids. That could not have been more true when it comes to dining out in the Niagara Peninsula. Just to put things into perspective... when I was younger I remembered Clifton Hill in Niagara Falls having quite a few tourist attractions, but at the time I thought they were novel and colourful as I passed them up (or down) the street. When we drove along Clifton Hill this time around, not only have the attractions intensified considerably along the same stretch, but the whole drag seemed so chintzy. It goes without saying then that dining in touristy Niagara Falls, with perhaps the possible exception of the casinos, as they aren't so family-oriented in nature, was not on our list this time around.

Having grown up now, since we were in the midst of the Niagara wine region, why not try dining amongst the vines? Some of the wineries in Niagara, especially the big-name players on the field (pardon the pun), not only are large enough to have private tasting rooms for busloads of tourists, they may also be large enough to have their own restaurants. Since wine traditionally is drunk while dining, what better way to showcase your own products than by feasting those whom, from a marketing perspective, you're trying to turn into customers of your vintages?

Like with finding "Inn on the Twenty", once again my sister deserves credit for finding the winery in which we tried its restaurant the following evening, Hillebrand Estates. Unlike the "Inn", Hillebrand's restaurant felt more open and relaxed with its higher ceilings and its several rooms which can accommodate a mix of small-table diners (like ourselves) or group functions, with one of the rooms a few steps higher than the rest of the dining area and its exterior facing us resembling a facade of perhaps a villa. The tables were especially wider than average, definitely ensuring bumping elbows would not be an issue. Most of the tables in the restaurant are able to look past the outdoor patio and view the wide tract of land in which the winery has staked its rows upon rows of lush green vines.


















For starters I had the Wellington County Rib Eye Carpaccio with white asparagus, allegretto cheese and Cabernet jelly. The jelly was delightful and blended the flavours of the other ingredients well, ensuring the cheese struck a chord with the beef. With all the ingredients being soft to the touch, the asparagus adds a nice light crunch to each mouthful. The carpaccio was wonderfully thin, easy to the bite and definitely helping make a visually colourful dish.


















The second course I opted to have was an oyster dish, the second such treat in as many nights; this time it was done in the style of a lobster BLT. I really liked the "Inn's" amuse-bouche version from the previous night as it was simple and light, but this version of oysters was just as delicious, and the richness in flavour was still at a very pleasant level. The bacon was fried extra crispy (my favourite way of doing bacon); not only does it give the bacon that satisfying crunch, it also helps to ensure as much fat has been fried out of the bacon itself as possible. The bacon was also mild on the saltiness, ensuring the oyster could still shine on the taste buds. The chopped loster mixture countered the bacon with its creamy texture, and in spite of all the rich flavours, the fresh tomato's natural sweetness and sourness kept everything in check and brought a degree of lightness to this dish.


















Duck breast and confit arrived as my main course, and it too did not disappoint. The saskatoon berry jus was a nice reminder of the area where I now live, and the flavour of the berry went well with the duck. I've personally not been a fan of raisins for ages now, but thankfully the diced ham-raisin concoction beneath the confit was very tolerable, with the right amount of raisins tossed in the mix to keep it from being too sweet for me to comfortably associate with a savoury dish.

It was at this time that the waitress made a gaffe and brought the wrong main course for my sister. My sister didn't mind so much as the dish still tasted very good, and she said that she would have gone for the halibut anyway if not the rabbit (though I don't know if it really was "sour grapes" [sorry, another pun] on her part... but to be fair, she is one of those who still hesitates on the idea of eating rabbit). In any case, it ended being a blessing in disguise for us; with my dessert taking longest to prepare (~20 minutes, and can't be done in advance), the waitress made up by offering each of us complementary glasses of the estate's 2006 Vidal icewine. Oh, I'll take a dish swap for a few sips of liquid golden sweetness any day!


















And this is my dessert that kept all of us waiting, the Michel Cluizel Dark Chocolate Souffle. Souffles are a finicky form of baked substance; they puff up in the oven, but after only a few minutes they'll fall flat again, mainly due to one of the ingredients being beaten egg whites. It is for this reason that souffles must be served piping hot out of the oven, and this one definitely was. As if there wasn't already enough chocolate for me (and who has ever heard that one can have too much chocolate? *grin*), between the souffle and the white chocolate ice cream was a dark chocolate truffle and a milk chocolate ganache, both of which I mixed into the light and fluffy souffle. None of the components were too sweet, and this dish was absolute choco-heaven for me.

Hillebrand was another pleasant experience in the Niagara Region, and to be honest with you, as the "Inn's" cuisine had a different approach it's a toss-up between the two. Even if you're no wine drinker, the food here is definitely worth a visit, and the atmoshpere makes dining at this place a relaxing and satisfying experience.


Name: Hillebrand Estates
Address: 1249 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON
Cuisine: Canadian
Price Range: Dinner $60-$80
Accessible: Yes

Saturday, 21 June 2008

Dining in Canada's Icewine Country - Part 1

As you may have read in the previous post, my sister has decided to move on with her own blog. I strongly encourage you to also keep an eye on hers... already her first posts have whetted my appetite! In the meantime, I'll continue to post my culinary adventures on this page, and right off the bat, I must provide reviews of two of the restaurants I tried last week while I still remember.

Last week I flew to Toronto to be with family in the area for two reasons: a one-week vacation for myself to see family, friends and relatives, and also to see my sister's convocation. Of course, with such things to do, and with living in hotels, dining out is virtually unavoidable, and I had some of my cravings of foods that seem "ordinary" in this region satisfied where it could not fully be back home. Shanghai cuisine is one example where I can easily get in Toronto or even in Ottawa, but not back home. Also, Swiss Chalet has yet to break out in Manitoba (alas!).

But I digress. There were definitely some upscale restaurants in the mix during the trip, and two of them were in the Niagara Peninsula wine country. This area is still reputable as one of a few major fruit belts in Canada, but it has also grown to become good wine country as well in part thanks to the geography and the nature of the soil. Because winters still arrive in the Niagara region (only time will tell if climate change will alter weather patterns in the future), Niagara is especially renowned for its icewines, wines made from grapes that have been picked in the middle of the night after being exposed to a certain amount of time in a certain level of freezing temperatures. Only one drop can be squeezed out of each grape, resulting in a rich and very sweet wines. Of course, where there is good wine being made, there's also bound to be good food in the area, and the two places my sis picked out of the hat did not disappoint.

The first one we visited was Inn on the Twenty, a restaurant which is part of an inn and spa tucked away in a quiet village sitting over a wooded valley called Jordan Station (west of St. Catharines, south of the Queen Elizabeth Way); the view of the valley made me forget that we were still fairly close to urban Ontario. The windows, valley scenery and decor seemed reminiscent of an English setting (and there still is a strong British historical presence in the Niagara Peninsula), but the ambience is definitely not old-school British at all; the interior, contemporary yet complementary to the surroundings, though more moderate in style and making the place feel intimate, did not feel stuffy at all. Perhaps one factor that helped ensure this restaurant feel intimate and quiet was the fact that we were there in early June; the real tourist season had still yet to begin.

















The first item we all had at our table was an amuse-bouche of fresh PEI oyster with homemade dill. The sourness of the vinegar, the refreshing nature of cucumber and the natural saltiness of the oyster made for a pleasant combination, and the homemade dill definitely helped whet my appetite as I waited for my dishes.

















My starting course was dumplings made of lobster with mixed greens that included baby asparagus. The dumplings were bursting with the flavour of lobster, and the meat within was cooked just right, the meat being just mildly chewy. The baby asparagus was a fun surprise, as until then I'd only had fully grown asparagus. The flavour is milder, and the tips were small, firm and still bunched up tightly.

















The main course was tenderloin of Ontario beef with asparagus and a potato-chanterelle gratin. The tenderloin was done just to my liking and was flavoured just right. The gratin was also done quite well, as mixing potato and cheese, if not done just right, can bring about a greasier, and therefore more filling, result. The dish, with all the various elements, was still simple enough that the flavours didn't clash one another.

















For dessert, I opted for the ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb sherbet. This dish was simple, clean yet elegantly done. The level of sweetness was just right for both the cheesecake and the sherbet.

Overall it was a pleasant experience at the Inn, and the food is delicious. Inn on the Twenty is definitely worth a visit, especially if you wish to experience fine dining in a more rural setting and, for those living especially in Toronto, in a rural setting that's only a daytrip (or an end to a wine tour) away.


Name: Inn on the Twenty
Address: 3845 Main Street, Jordan, ON
Cuisine: Continental
Price Range: Dinner $40-$70
Accessible: Yes

Sunday, 1 June 2008

What's been cooking?

Posted by Bonita

It's certainly been awhile, but alas, I did not forget this blog nor have I suddenly found a distaste for food. Far from that! Rather, I've been busy preparing the move to my new blog. Yes, after much thought and deliberation on my part, I've decided to part ways with Andrew here and create my own separate blog.

It's certainly been an amazing past year here. Looking back, I've made quite a few things. Some were great, while some turned out to be disasters. More importantly, I've had some great friends and family to share my culinary adventures along the way. Food is nothing, and honestly cannot be thoroughly enjoyed, if you don't do it properly and in good company. I hope to continue this tradition with my new blog. It's one thing to cook and eat good food, but nothing makes me more excited when I can share it with others, literally and virtually. I also want to thank my brother, Andrew, for having shared this space with me the past year. It's been fun, and we've had our fair share of delicious meals together. And it certainly won't be the last! You'll just have to come home more often...

Please come check out my new home, Bon Eats, where I hope to continue to share my passion and adventures in all things culinary with everyone!

To Bonita's new food blog --> Bon Eats

Saturday, 19 April 2008

The Braywick Bistro

Posted by Bonita

As you may recall, less than a month ago, I went out to dinner with some friends, thinking that that evening would probably be the last time we would get together as four and enjoy some good food, good wine and good company for at least a year. Lo-and-behold, I got an email from one of them a few days later, attached with a website address, claiming that we had to all go try this restaurant. Such news made my day, since it met getting to enjoy the company of my lovely friends over a lovely meal.

The restaurant of choice this time around, thanks to Dana's recommendation, was The Braywick Bistro on Dundas Street. The location of the restaurant was a bit of a surprise, since the walk from the bus stop to the restaurant seemed a bit...sketchy at times. It definitely wouldn't have been a neighbourhood I would initially stick a nice restaurant like the Braywick in. However, despite some of the more rundown buildings, the restaurant itself it really nice when we finally came across it. The establishment itself is small, giving the place a comfortable, cozy feel. With its warm brown tones, and a cute fireplace (which has been filled in with a heating grate), and interesting photography artwork, the decor lended nicely to the bistro environment.

Between the four of us, Dana is our designated sommelier, so we usually leave it up to her to pick the wine for us. After deliberating over the menu to see what we wanted to eat in order to match the wine, we decided to go with something a bit more versatile: a 2005 Gamay Rose VQA produced by Lailey Vineyard's, a local vineyard in the Niagara-On-The-Lake region. What's interesting is that Braywick's entire wine list features wines from Lailey Vineyard's. It's great to see the restaurant promoting local wines! The restaurant also does BYOW (Bring Your Own Wine), and while we initially contemplated the idea, we thought that the $15 uncorking fee was not worth it in the end. Plus the Gamay was really nice! It has a gorgeous colour for a Rose too!

Since we are huge foodies, we decided we would just share the whole meal the entire night. We asked our waiter to recommend some appetizers to us, and he said their most popular appetizers were the Sweet Potato Sticks and the Phyllo-Wrapped Brie served with a mixed berry compote and focaccia rusks. Honestly, there was nothing particularly special about the appetizers, just fancy sweet potato fries and baked cheese that I could easily make myself. The sweet potato sticks were served with a flavoured mayo, which Dana believes is a roasted red pepper mayo. Since she rules at guessing at sauces and dips, we didn't question her authority, hehe.

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It was the entrees that were the standout of the evening. Our waiter (who was absolutely fabulous!) was nice enough to bring out three separate plates for us so that we could share the three entrees. They all looked so fantastic and smelled mouth-wateringly delicious as they arrived at our table. Dana ordered the Seafood Primavera Linguine with salmon, prawns, and scallops in a blush sauce, while I ordered the Herb-Crusted Pork Tenderloin with an apple and jalapeno slaw. Vince went for the special of the evening, Rack of Lamb with White Truffle Demi-Glaze, and a Mushroom and Roasted Garlic Risotto (you should have seen our faces when the waiter was describing it earlier in the evening). All the dishes were delightful in their own ways. I loved the addition of dill to the linguine; dill is a classic pairing with seafood, so to have that tossed in with the pasta and sauce added complexity and depth to the flavours of the dish. The pork tenderloin was cooked perfectly, but I absolutely loved the slaw that came with it. The sweetness and tartness of the apples with the slight kick from the jalapenos was a perfect balance. And the lamb...the lamb was lovely! Perfectly cooked to a medium-rare, and the white truffle demi-glaze was rich but not overpowering, giving it a really nice earthy flavour. The risotto was also a hit amongst us, with the earthiness of the mushrooms contrasting nicely with the sweetness of the roasted garlic.

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By the end of the evening, we were stuffed, and literally arguing over who should finish that last rack of lamb sitting on the plate. We didn't try their desserts, unfortunately, since we decided to go to a jazz bar a few blocks away for some coffee, desserts, live music and dancing. And while the appetizers didn't particularly excite me at first, the entrees and the great service definitely made up for it. It was also nice that the chef came out to ask how we were enjoying our meal, which is always great to see. Our server was also very pleasant, offering his suggestions and reassurring us that no, we weren't being obnoxious patrons with our conversations and laughter.

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The one thing that would have made this evening perfect was if Kait was there with us, who unfortunately could not join us. So not the complete Fab Four, but she was there in spirit. It's hard to imagine a whole year with the three of them, but time will fly, and before I know it, we'll be together once again, enjoying great food together.

Name: The Braywick Bistro
Address: 224 Dundas Street, London, ON
Cuisine: Continental/Fusion
Price Range: Dinner $18-30 (entrée)
Accessible: Yes (but not washrooms)

Monday, 14 April 2008

The Fusion Notion

Posted by Andrew

So, it appears that the third time was the charm. I originally wanted to try the Fusion Grill, located in an upscale neighbourhood on Academy Rd. just east of Kenaston Blvd., way back in February during the Dining Out Winnipeg event, but a blizzard dashed those plans very well. The next attempt was in late February on a rare overnighter in Winnipeg, but I learned that the place was quite small and that reservations are highly recommended. Finally, this past Saturday I'd booked a table beforehand and got myself an opportunity to finally try this place that features, as its name implies, fusion cuisine.

Fusion... according to the Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary it means "food prepared using techniques and ingredients of two or more ethnic or regional cuisines". It seems to me that there are a good handful of fusion cuisine restaurants, which in a sense is not surprising considering how multicultural Canada is; heck, even mixed race/culture relationships are on the rise according to Statistics Canada. Though fusion allows for innumerable combinations of creativity and ingenuity, one potential weakness that I constantly worry about this style is that, by virtue of its style, fusion waters down each individual original cuisine. Essentially, for lack of a better term, fusion may be seen by some to bastardize original cuisines. Of course, I've come to appreciate fusion cuisine; with Canada being multicultural, "Canadian Regional" cuisine nowadays could be argued to be fusion by nature as well.

Even the restaurant's decor appeared to be a fusion in itself as well. Abstract paintings are set on mauve-grey walls while the chairs looked like throwbacks from the mid-century. Even the booth in which I was seated seemed a bit out of place, the wooden seat creaking occasionally whenever I shifted weight as it appeared to dangle a bit precariously on the wall (that booth would not have fit a second person with the limited leg room beneath the table). The upside of being seated at that booth was that I was close to the kitchen and bar, and I could overhear bits of the wait staff's conversations amongst themselves before the placed was packed. From what I could hear, it seemed like they enjoyed working there and with each other, which is always a boon for a successful restaurant; no matter how good the chef is, poor service will still leave a bad taste in a diner's mouth.















The first dish I tried was a toss-up between two appetizers, but, in the end, my love for mushrooms got the best of me and I went for the "Wild mushroom strudel with chantrelles, honey and lobster mushrooms, phyllo pastry, sour cream, smoked cheddar and white truffle oil." This was definitely not your traditional version of strudel, and the subtle sweetness of the mushrooms helped bring out the slight sourness of both the sour cream and the cheddar, and the aroma of the truffle oil that wafted to my nose was intoxicating. At first glance I thought the garnish in the middle of the dish was watercress, but upon closer viewing and tasting I realized that it was actually pea shoots. I know at least in Chinese cuisine tender snow pea vine shoots are edible, but to be honest with you I was never a real fan of that vegetable.















For my main course I went for a "Smoked then grilled elk sirloin with oyster mushrooms, barley risotto and saskatoon berry demi-glace". Though the elk was done to a nice medium, unfortunately I could taste the bitterness of some charring. I loved the barley risotto, however, and couldn't seem to get enough of it. (I apologize for the darkness of the photos... I didn't dare ruin the other diners' experiences with sudden camera flashes.)















Dessert selections were limited to only four items, one of them being creme brulee and the other three being cakes; it appears to me that dessert doesn't seem to get as much attention from the kitchen as much as it perhaps should. Nonetheless, I decided to try their Bernard Callebaut Chocolate Cake, which turned out to be quite warm and soft inside with a slightly crispy outside. One neat little surprise was the edible "bowl" holding the vanilla ice cream; I swear there was a hint of ginger or something just as zingy in it.

Fusion Grill overall gave me a better-than-average impression of itself. Though there are opportunities for improvements with respect to the cooking, the casual atmosphere, made effective in part to the small size of the dining area (I managed to count only about 12 tables) made it an enjoyable experience nonetheless. It is understandable why this place can easily get busy.


Name: Fusion Grill Restaurant
Address: 550 Academy Road, Winnipeg, MB
Cuisine: Fusion
Price Range: Lunch $22-$30; Dinner $30-50
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Saturday, 5 April 2008

Egg-static!

Posted by Andrew


















Yes, it's probably hard to believe, but until last night I've never made a frittata, or at least a proper one, beforehand. Oh well, as one saying goes, "better late than never!"

With that in mind I'd picked up some chorizo sausages a week or two ago to put in the frittata, amongst other ingredients. For this one I made last night, I also added sliced mushrooms, half a red onion, baby spinach leaves, shredded mozzarella and grated parmegiano (~1 cup each of both cheeses). With a 12" cast iron pan in hand, I went with eight large eggs, beaten and mixed with a bit of salt and freshly ground pepper mixed into it. After sauteing the mushrooms and onions over medium heat I finished cooking the slices of two chorizo sausages that I'd just parboiled earlier. Once the chorizo slices were cooked through, I added most of the spinach, letting them begin to wilt before I poured the eggs in the pan, adding most of the mozzarella and some of the parmegiano as well. As suggested by Bonita I folded the egg mixture occasionally as it slowly began to set to help give it a fluffier texture, but the folding also helped in the mixing of the ingredients into a more even consistency.

With the egg mixture almost set I popped the pan off the stove, sprinkled the remaining spinach and cheeses on top and put it under the broiler for a few minutes to finish things off.

For a first time attempt, this was a success, and I was giddy as a schoolboy after I took the first bite. The chorizo gave a nice kick to the frittata, complemented by the natural sweetness of the onion and mushrooms. I could perhaps add a bit more spinach next time, and definitely herbs are in order, such as basil. No worries... I intend on making a Chorizo, Mushroom and Spinach Frittata for my colleagues at the upcoming pot luck. Oh man, with the dishes I make for the pot lucks at work, am I spoiling them rotten or what?

Friday, 4 April 2008

Happy Birthday Cakes

Posted by Bonita

I know I've been MIA around here for the past few weeks, but alas, I was caught up in yet another exam season (my last as an undergrad, at that!). With one paper and three other assignments due this past week, I've certainly had my hands full. However, that did not stop me from baking from birthday treats for some friends, both of who celebrated their birthdays on Monday.

apr04_01

The first cake, a Spiced Apple Coffee Cake, was baked for Vince and the rest of our Italian class. The addition of cream cheese to this cake gives this cake a dense but super-moist crumb. Packed with lots of fresh apples, and spiced with cinnamon and ground cardamom, this cake is perfect in the afternoons with a cup of coffee or tea. I topped the cake off with a maple glaze. The maple flavour was overpowered by the sweetness of the icing sugar, however, so I'll need to work on the glaze a bit. But otherwise, it turned out a success!

apr04_02

The second cake was made for my friend Heather. She has a twin, and she once told me that her mom alternates each year on which cake to make, and Heather was the twin who liked Chocolate Cake. Hence, I made her Chocolate Cupcakes with Chocolate Buttercream, adapted from the recipes found over at Cupcake Bakeshop. What I love about these chocolate cupcakes is that they are so easy to whip together, and they come out so fluffy and moist. I love cupcakes, but I've often gotten pretty dense ones, so to have finally found a recipe that gave me light, airy cupcakes but still have a dense, rich chocolatey-flavour made my week! Another thing I love about these cupcakes? The fun cupcake liners, courtesy of the Martha Stewart Crafts line. I actually picked these cute red & pink liners way back in December when I was purchasing gift-wrapping materials for my cookies. I couldn't resist myself when I saw them, and I'm glad I got them, as pricey as they were. Who could imagine that just a little bit of paper could add so much personality to a cupcake?

Chocolate Cupcakes with Chocolate Buttercream
Adapted from this recipe by Chockylit
Makes about 18 large
  • 3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
  • 1 1/2 cups sugar
  • 3 eggs
  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 3/4 cup cocoa powdered
  • 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder
  • 1 1/2 cups milk
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. In a bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, cocoa powder, and espresso powder. Set aside. Mix together the milk and vanilla; set aside.
  3. In a separate bowl, beat butter until softened. Add sugar and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating 30 seconds after each addition, or until incorporated.
  4. Add about a third of the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and beat to combine. Add about a half of the milk and beat to combine. Continue adding, alternating between dry and wet, and finishing with the dry.
  5. Spoon batter into a lined muffin cups, about 3/4's full. Bake for about 25-30 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. Let cool for 5 minutes before releasing them from the pan. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

Chocolate Buttercream
Makes enough to lightly frost 1 recipe of Chocolate Cupcakes (about 18)

  • 1/4 cup butter, at room temperature
  • 1/4 cup cocoa powder, sifted
  • 1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
  • 1/4 cup milk **See Note
  • 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
  • A few drops vanilla extract
  1. Beat butter on high for about 1 minutes until soft and light. Add a few drops of vanilla and beat to incorporate.
  2. Add the cocoa and 1 cup of the sugar; beat until incorporated.
  3. Add half of the milk and the remainder of the sugar and beat until incorporated.
  4. Continue to add milk until you get the consistency you want.

**Note** The amount of milk require varies. Some people may require more, others less. With this recipe, I find that I usually need to add more milk to get a good, spreadable consistency. Just go a few drops at a time; you want to get something that is spreadable but not soupy either.